Breast Form Casings
annie's place Special Features Breast Form Project Casing

Constructing The Breast Form Casing

This page was last updated November 4, 1997.

Making the casings will be the most difficult part. I immediately rejected such things as balloons, condoms, rubber gloves, plastic bags, etc., because, IMAO, they do not have the shape of a human breast, particularly in the portion that extends around the chest under the arm.

Most cheaper breast forms (not "falsies", but true breast forms) do have a shape that includes the underarm extension. Here's the procedure I used to make the casings.

I'm now adding a drawing showing the approximate shape and dimensions of the finished plaster cast for those who would like to make one using methods different from those I used. This is the approximate size for a 36-B, and should also be close to 34-C and 38-A.

Materials:

1. Plaster of Paris. Any hobby shop will have this.

2. Fine sand. Filter sand or casting sand will work fine.

3. Sandpaper, assortment of grits.

4. Liquid latex molding compound. Any large hobby shop will have this. It's also sold in "adult" stores at much higher prices. (same stuff)

5. Rubber cement.

6. Silicone sealant (RTV), clear or white.

7. Brushes, knives, scissors, etc.

Procedure:

1. Make a sand mold of a form that fits you properly. Use slightly damp sand in a tub or box. Be sure the sand mold includes all of the form, especially the part that extends to the underarm. Be sure that the form is not compressed when the mold is made.

2. Make a plaster cast of the sand mold. Allow this to dry and cure for at least 24 hours. Use dry sandpaper, and perhaps a coarse file, to smooth and shape the resulting cast.

3. Apply (with a brush) two coats of liquid latex to the top (curved portion) and bottom (flat portion) of the cast. Cover the entire bottom portion, and the top portion EXCEPT for a 1/2 inch band around the front third of the top portion.

Allow each coat to dry and cure at least 12 hours.

Plaster form with two coats of latex.

4. Using a disposable brush or swab, apply a thick coat of silicone compound to the entire bottom (flat) of the form. Do NOT coat any of the top of the form with silicone compound at this time. Fabric-rubber "flap" pulled back (step 6) and latex "lip" applied around edge (step 7).

7. Using a small brush, apply three coats of latex to the bare plaster bottom of the form, making about a 1/2 inch "lip". Overlap onto the edges of the top of the form. Allow each coat to dry and cure at least 12 hours.

8. Using a disposable brush or swab (the cheap foam rubber paint brushes work fine) apply a thin layer of silicone compound to the top surface of the form. Overlap to the fabric surface slightly. DO NOT OVERLAP TO THE LATEX LIPS that were brushed on in step 7. Allow this to cure for at least 48 hours.

9. Using a disposable brush or swab, apply a thin coat of silicone compound to the fabric-covered bottom of the form. Allow this to cure for at least 48 hours.

10. CAREFULLY peel the finished casing off of the plaster mold, starting at the lips at the pointy end.

Use an appropriate instrument to help separate the rubber from the plaster if necessary. The rubber should separate from the plaster quite easily.

Remove any creases. At this time, I let the finished casing rest for a few hours at least.

11. Using rubber cement, glue the fabric back onto the lips of rubber, leaving an approximate 1/2 inch diameter hole at the very tip. This will be used to fill the form. BE VERY CAREFUL TO AVOID ACCIDENTALLY GLUING THE TOP OF THE FORM TO EITHER THE LIPS OR THE BOTTOM FLAP. IF THIS SHOULD HAPPEN, SEPARATE THE SURFACES IMMEDIATELY AND ALLOW THE MISPLACED RUBBER CEMENT TO DRY.

12. Gently inflate the casing with air and inspect for any leaks. Immerse in water and look for bubbles. Patch any holes with liquid latex and a thin coat of silicone compound.


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